The 7 Best Things to do in The Marais

Salut tout le monde.

I’ve been thinking up this post for a while, and I’m excited to roll up my sleeves and actually get to it. When I first arrived in Paris, I obviously had no idea where I wanted to live. I was pretty much going where the wind blew me, and I didn’t think I had the right to be picky at all. Most people have tons of trouble locating their apartment in Paris and end up having to move multiple times before finally settling in.

But, I got so lucky. (Well, I believe it’s a little more than luck, but you can read more about that here.) Within the first few weeks, a gorgeous apartment right along Canal St. Martin fell into my lap and it was everything I’d hoped for and dreamed about (literally.)

Though I always said I would be thrilled to live along the Canal and in the République neighborhood for a thousand reasons (not very many tourists, the canal is gorgeous, close to nightlife and access to the metro that has the most lines running through it,) there was one big plus for this neighborhood that I did not realize until I had moved in: the proximity to Le Marais.

If you don’t know, Le Marais is a gorgeous, chic neighborhood in Paris with beautiful boutiques, coffee shops, restaurants in the 3rd and 4th arrondissements. It is one of the oldest neighborhoods in Paris, and it’s about as Parisian as it gets. There is also nary a monument in le Marais, so you won’t find many tourists (if that’s what you’re looking to avoid.)

 

And it’s just about 10 minutes from my apartment on foot! Needless to say, I’ve spent many, many hours strolling the streets in le Marais, window shopping, tasting the food, and losing my afternoons reading in all of the coffee shops. So, without further ado, it’s time for me to share my favorites.

Lily of the Valley: The most beautiful little tea shop with gorgeous antique looking tea pots, floral everything, and vines growing on the ceiling. Excellent for tea with friends or just alone with a book. Go for the cute photo, stay for the tea.

Gloss Up Beauty Bar: The cutest place to do your nails and pamper yourself. Aesthetically, the place is adorable down to every last detail. And they do an incredible job on your nails. I normally opt for shellac so that my polish stays on a full two weeks, but the GlossUp manicures have made that completely unnecessary. They also do really adorable nail art, and you can host cute “beauty brunches” there with champagne.

Le Marché Des Enfants Rouges: The oldest market in Paris at 400 years old, Le Marché des Enfants Rouges is a beautiful open market with many restaurants to eat at and produce to buy. The history of this beautiful market is worth reading about, but I’m hear to tell you about my two favorite food options in the market.

• Italian: There’s no website that I can find for the market, much less my favorite little Italian spot with a name that’s unbeknownst to me. If you’re in the market, you’ll know it when you see it. All who work there may as well have arrived from Italy yesterday, which is just another way to say that the food is obviously delicious. If you’re looking for a little taste of Italy in France, this is the place to go.
• Chez Alain Miam Miam: I could do an entire stand-alone post on Chez Alain and these sandwiches. They’re incredibly famous, and a quick google search will pull up all of the reviews, YouTube videos, and articles people have already done. In the market, the Chez Alain sandwich stand is run by Alain’s son. The real Alain is just down the street, still on Rue Charlotte, working at the brick and mortar shop that they just opened. Whether you go to the market and get Alain or his son, the food is incredible and the whole thing is an experience. The ridiculously long line is worth it, because for Alain, it’s not a single-fuck-given about how long it takes. It’s all about making you the perfect sandwich. You can choose from veggie, your type of meat, or smoked salmon, and your choice from the two fresh cheeses he has to offer, but that’s it. Alain’s sandwiches are a work of art and are not to be messed with. They’re perfect on their own, anyway. Your eyes will bulge out of your head when you see just how much of everything he’s putting on your sandwich, and you’ll be convinced that there’s no way this whole thing can actually stay together. But it can, and it does. He’ll give you two full slices of cheese so that you can taste them both and make an informed decision for what you want on your sandwich. Whenever I’m waiting in the absolutely ridiculous line, the people around me are usually from all different parts of the world, because word has gotten out about Alain’s sandwich. It’s that good.

SEASON Cafe: Good coffee, and good food albeit a bit pricy. If you get there early you can snag a spot on the counter that opens to a window… it’s a great spot to work if you need to get some work done at a coffee shop. They’re also usually playing great music (though I think that depends on the barista.)

GIGI: Hands down the best crepe/galette restaurant I’ve eaten at in Paris with a gorgeous rustic looking interior and exterior. I recommend the jambon truffé galette.

Derriere & 404: I’ve tried both of these restaurants, which share the same gorgeous patio space. Both restaurants do a delicious brunch, Derriere being buffet style and 404 with a Moroccan theme. Derriere is another spot that I could write an entire stand-alone blog post about, but since this NYT article just about covers it, I’ll leave you with this piece of advice: after stuffing yourself to the brim at Derriere; a walk through the restaurant to see the beautiful hidden rooms is an absolute must. Don’t forget to go upstairs and find the trap door.

 

Candelaria: Tacos aren’t as huge in Paris as they are in certain parts of the U.S. You’ll easily find asian food on every corner in Paris, but you have to search to find good tacos. Candelaria is the best taco place in the Marais (though truthfully I find Cafe Chilango to be the best taco spot in Paris.) The restaurant gets full very quickly and often has a line outside the door, but it’s worth the wait. Great tacos and frozen margaritas. Pro tip: if you aren’t starving, there’s a bar in the back where they serve drinks and apps– a la speakeasy. You won’t be able to clearly see where the second bar is but you just have to push through to the back and you’re there.